The silence of the mountains is not an absence. It is an encounter.
When Kika writes to me in the autumn, we hardly talk about mountains at all. After the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, there is one thing we all want: to travel together again. We just have to choose where.
This year, I will welcome them to my home ground in the Vanoise. The Tour of the Grande Casse takes us into the heart of France’s first national park, beneath the highest summit in Savoie.
Everyone arrives a day earlier than planned. Loïc picks them up in Geneva and, a few hours later, we settle into our apartment overlooking the lake in Tignes. The resort is almost empty. The last snow still covers the summits. And since we are here, we head out for a walk.
Our first loop takes shape as we follow the water. At La Gouille des Salins, a curtain of droplets spills down the cliff. Below, Lac du Chevril holds the memory of the old village beneath its waters. Suman takes it all in, curious as ever, while Jonny is already slowing down, waiting for a particular light that only he seems to have noticed before lifting his camera.


The next day, we set off from La Gurraz. The forest gradually gives way to alpine pastures, then to the last patches of snow holding out against summer. Green meadows stand against the white of the Glacier de la Martin. The mountains reveal their full palette of colours.
On our way back, we stop to see Anémone, the last producer of Persillé de Tignes cheese. Kika almost leaves her bag behind in front of the cheeses. Here, every local speciality comes with a story to discover, a person to meet, a flavour to remember.
That evening, our journey simply takes another form around Nico’s Table. The Persillé we discovered a few hours earlier finds its way into the lasagne. Snails, collected and prepared with my daughter in Tignes, open the meal. And the conversation carries on long after the homemade cheesecake, of course.
On the third day, we leave Tignes and enter the Vanoise National Park. The Grande Casse appears between breaks in the clouds, then vanishes into the mist. Since the start of the trip, it has shown itself only in glimpses, as though choosing when it will finally reveal itself. Then the mountain takes charge.
Winter avalanches have changed the trails. One closure sign appears. Then another. Then a third. Our planned route is gone. Jonny shrugs. “At least no one else will take the same path as us.” Kika is already leaning over the map. A few minutes later, we are walking in a different direction.
We climb towards a small chapel above the gorge, follow old waymarks that have almost faded away, cross scree slopes and find a long-forgotten passage. The detour leads us into a wilder mountain landscape than we had expected.
At Plan Fournier, we put our packs down in the grass. Water runs between the chalets. The hamlet seems suspended in time. We stop for a simple picnic before making our way to Pralognan by a route we had never planned to take.


Later, a local woman smiles and asks us to bring her some fern if we happen to find any. We play along. When she sees us again, our arms full, her face lights up. She immediately takes us to a small goat-cheese producer I had never met before.
Sometimes, the journey truly begins where the map ends.
That eventful day plants an idea. The via ferrata, mentioned only as a possibility, naturally finds its place in the following day’s plans.
Marius, a friend and mountain guide, meets us at the foot of the cliff. Catherine hesitates as she looks out across the drop. We try the first few metres. Arms tense; legs say what words have not yet found. She decides to meet the group farther along. Nobody presses her. A few zip lines later, laughter echoes across the valley, and we all come together again.
We pick up our packs and head towards the Refuge de la Vanoise. Lac des Vaches reflects the Aiguille de la Vanoise. Ariane, quieter at first, gradually finds her place in this already close-knit group. Suman is still full of wonder. Jonny keeps an eye on the light, and his dry humour arrives at just the right moment.


The fifth morning begins before dawn.
At five o’clock, it is still dark. The refuge is asleep as we follow Jérémy, another friend and mountain guide. Our headlamps pick out the first steps. Higher up, snow turns to ice. Our crampons bite into the glacier. Roped together, we make our way towards the Pointe de la Réchasse. The wind is strong. Conversation falls away.
At the summit, no one searches for words. A sip of génépi warms us as we look out over the glaciers of the Vanoise.
That afternoon, we reach the Refuge de la Leisse. Félix welcomes us, although the refuge does not officially open until the next day. We have the place to ourselves. Alone at dinner. Alone at sunrise. Alone over a coffee outside, facing mountains that are still silent.
On the last day, snow slows our return to Tignes. One step holds; the next sinks in. Our pace eases naturally. Catherine finds fresh energy as soon as the snow patches disappear. We reach the Crête de Fresse.
For the first time, the Grande Casse reveals itself completely behind us. Ahead, Tignes comes back into view. We rejoin the trail from our first walk. We have come full circle.
One last beer at the Marmot Arms, then one last evening around Nico’s Table, let the adventure linger a little longer.
In the hope of always taking your dreams a little further...
Few more pictures, just for the pleasure.
You can rely on Nico 100%!
Two years ago, I joined my first tour with Nico on my own and met some wonderful people along the way. We have just returned from our third tour with Nico, and we are no longer strangers but friends.
The tour was perfectly tailored to us. Nico took us into the beautiful Vanoise Valley and guided us on an unforgettable journey. We were spoiled by his cooking skills and enjoyed every picnic spot with its breathtaking views.
One thing is certain: you can rely on Nico 100% to create a trip that fulfills desires you didn’t even know you had. One example of Nico’s flexibility and creativity was when we spontaneously included a via ferrata excursion in our itinerary – something we hadn’t planned beforehand, which turned out to be one of the many highlights of the journey. He has a remarkable talent for turning an adventure into something truly special and memorable.
A wonderful journey has come to an end, leaving us with unforgettable memories, meaningful conversations, and even greater ideas and dreams for the next trip.
Thank you, Nico, for an amazing time. We are already looking forward to our next adventure together!
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